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October 21, 2012

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K-Line

Denise, your skill is improving all the time. I sense you need to pull fabric (lengthwise) out of the jacket back, above the darts. By the looks of the photo, 2 inches. I'd suggest you taper the width back to the pattern size at the side seams, but I think you need to pull some length out of the front piece too. It's hard to see what's going on with the darts in the photo but I'd start with the shortening alterations and see how it looks. I wonder what other commenters will think...

Cindy

It looks to me that you have too much length in the bodice both front and back. You can pin the wedge out in the back and mark it and make those same changes on the pattern. The sleeve front combo is more complicated. I think you should ask your teacher to help you with this part. My teacher told me how to fix it but I'm not sure how to verbalize it. I've noticed the same fitting issues with many in the Flickr group

Debbie

I agree that you have too much length both front and back. But...I can't help but think that you've cut at least 1 or 2 sizes too big. In that last side pic in looking at the sleeve/shoulder area there is way way too much fabric bunched up. Even the back shot shows too much width with all the folds. I realize that you need extra room in a coat but that looks like way too much.

velosewer

Do you think that the coat does need room, when you wear a whole other outfit underneath? I think your concerns are worth investigating further.
I'll keep checking in to see how the coat is going. It's still an elegant pattern.

Louisa

Don't forget that the weight of the skirt part will pull the bodice down. How will that affect the back puffiness? Though I think it will still need a little of both length and width removed above the darts.

weirdrockstar

For the fitting you really should have the skirt part sewed in already. It will alter the fit massively and to fit without it would be just... pretty pointless in regards a gal intends to end up with the entire coat. Having that said...
The back length is too long. It needs to be ( the bunching part ) pinned and then that much needs to be taken in from the pattern. The front darts seem fairly a ok...
The front darts use your very own nipples as a map, you see. In a coat a dart should stop 2,5 cm´s ( one´ish inch ) down from your nipple and the darts should be positioned at about 1- 1,5 cm´s to the sides from your natural nipples. These measures are used in coats. A basic ease on coats is + 10 cm´s on the boobwidth, one should at least as much ease.
Good luck & may the force sew with you!

Denise

Thank you for all the expert opinions! I appreciate them so very much. So very, very.

Denise

I haven't been working on my Gertie coat much — even though I love it — but my dressmaker helped me get the bodice right. It's cut out now, and some sewing done on the bodice.

Joel Salmon

I agree with Louisa about the darts. And I think adding piping on the linings will improve the piece.

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